The funny part of this is that after snagging the spring bolt and special washer that had fallen off inside by using the two magnets, I snagged a second spring bolt that must have been sitting on the bottom of the flywheel housing for many decades. The second magnet was knocked off inside the housing! Yikes! So, I adjusted the first magnet, turned the hand crank, and after a few revolutions picked up the fallen magnet. I added a second magnet to the back of the first and tried again. I had some old screen door magnets (cylindrical in shape but flat on two sides) and attached one to the back of the starter ring. Then I tried Greg's idea of attaching a magnet to the starter ring. I tried the telescopic magnet without success. Well, the suggestion by Great Lakes Greg was spot on. I know from my own bitter experience that trying to use 5/16 bolts with the 3/8 spring (even with new lock washers, Loctite and the add-on clips which reduce the spring 'rock' and twist) resulted in failure within about 20 or 30 starts. I had bought a new bendix spring but note that the larger suppliers like Mac's only do the 3/8 size. The 3/8 doesn't sound like much but in your hand they are much more sturdy. Note that the bolts changed from 5/16 to 3/8 after 1929 - why? Someone will tell us I'm sure. I too thought (in my late night desperation) of drilling out the drainage hole - but it really should not be necessary. Then gently, slowly rotate back up and gently slowly retrieve the bits and then the magnet from the hole - Hallelujah ! You can hear the lost parts clicking on to the magnet. Spark plugs out - and gently rotate the engine so the magnet goes down to 6 o'clock. I got a strong magnet about 1 1/2 diameter (quite chunky), tied a string to it (in case it drops !) and placed it throught the starter motor hole and clunked it onto the smooth flywheel wall beyond the ring gear. The flexible rod with magnet head might well work. I had a telescopic rod magnet set with adjustable angle heads - that did not work. There is good thread but I don't have time to link to it now. I have recently been in your exact situation. Any other suggestions on improving my Bendix drive? I saw on other posts here that the modern design starter drive has caused problems for many.
I'll order those along with new bolts and washers. I also noticed when examining the Bendix drive that there were no spring clips that I've seen in various Model A parts catalogs. My theory of how the bolt came loose is that the washer fatigued, failed, and allowed the bolt to gradually back out
Do I need to worry about removing them? If so, how best to get at them with the least amount of work? I can only assume that they now reside in the flywheel housing. I removed the starter today and found that the spring bolt and special washer on the Bendix drive next to the gear end (not the drive head end) were missing. My starter motor runs but doesn't crank the engine. Then, in 1963, the smaller 153 tooth flywheel was introduced.This is my first post (well, really the second, but the first doesn't count because I unintentionally posted this message to the Swap Forum) and I want to thank the participants here for the incredibly helpful advice I've found while reading old posts and replies. Up until 1962, the ONLY size flywheel was the 168 tooth version.
#Bb chevy168 flywheel.....whatsize bendic manual#
So, you need a staggered bolt pattern starter with a cast iron nose which is what came on all BB/4sp cars and SB cars with the 168 tooth manual flywheel. For the smaller, 153 tooth flywheel or flexplate, it's not an issue.
Thus, only the cast iron starter nose will fit into a big bell housing. The reason is because the starter bulge on a bell housing for the big flywheel is too small for the alum starter nose. BUT, a starter with a staggered bolt pattern and an ALUM nose will ONLY work with an auto tranny flywheel (flex plate). BUT, in your specific case, ONLY a starter with a STAGGERED BOLT PATTERN AND A CAST IRON NOSE will work!! That is, in regards to a stock type starter, NOT an aftermarket mini starter.Īny starter with a straight bolt pattern will work with a 153 tooth auto or manual flywheel.Ī starter with a CAST IRON nose and staggered bolt pattern will work with either an auto or manual 168 tooth flywheel. My 70 Z28 4-spd has the 168 tooth with the 621 bell.
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